Sunday 15 March 2015

Standing on a Beach

The first time I stood on a beach, and saw the sea, endless and magnificent. I was about seven, and it was like being smacked full in the face with a metaphysical, heavy-bottomed frying pan. I was on a day-trip to Blackpool, home of seaside rock and beachfront misery, and wasn't really expecting to have such a life-affirming epiphany. Mostly because I was only about seven. My life revolved around colouring-in and Vimto.

The steely, grey-cold plane of water, stretching into an infinity made me feel like I was standing on the edge of forever, staring into oblivion, facing down God*, and both growing in strength and shrivelling in fear simultaneously. It was a feeling such as the Romantics would later term The Sublime, but at that undeveloped age, with my small vocabulary and limited knowledge of classical French philosophy, I merely stared, and, pointing to the edge of the world, said to my mother, ‘There’s the sea’.

I was always perceptive.

I’ve loved beaches, and the sea, ever since.  They are reminder of the unfathomable possibilities of life on Earth, of the journeys we might take, the places we may visit.  The sea in particular invokes a sense of connectedness, as the water which leaves Blackpool is the water which laps the shores of Brighton, crashes into New York harbours, purrs around the sunny shores of South America and imprisons the convicts of Australia.  Staring at the sea is staring at the world, and remembering that we all live here, now, on this rock, at this time in the history of the universe, at this pinprick in the scope of existence.

And, while I genuinely love a sun-washed party-beach, fringed with ramshackle bars selling cheap unidentifiable booze and banging out soulless, plastic techno-pop, I’ve reached an age where the dark melancholy of Northern English beaches is coming into its own.

I took the old mother of earlier Blackpool fame to Formby beach for a Mother’s Day outing today. The sky was thickly grey, the sea  sheet of heavy black.  A cold nip needled the air, the sand was damp and chill. It was gothly lovely.  As when I was seven, the sensation of being strangled by the enormity of existence fizzed around, and the sea, the same sea I saw thirty five years ago, held all the above meaning, but more.

Because I realised that the seas had been there for billions of years, in one form or other, and probably would be for many to come. But the time here for me, for everyone else on that beach, in Formby, in Liverpool**, in the world, was very finite. And I realised that the attraction of the beach/sea combo is a paradoxical one – one of feeling connected to the universe, and one of knowing that our place in the universe is very, very temporary.

And it’s at these spots, reminders of our mortality, our worthlessness, that we choose to spend our free time, that we spend our hard-earned***money visiting.  We actively go out of our way to be reminded that we’re nothing and we’re going to die.

I don’t think that’s a bad thing.  Because if we realise we’ll eventually be gone, but the world will continue, and hundreds, maybe thousands of years from now, other little boys and girls will see the sea for the first time, and they, too, will marvel at the hugeness of everything, and feel the connectedness with all that lives on this planet, and all that has come and will come, maybe we’ll stop fucking up the planet and the people who live on it.

And if not? Well, the sea will surely survive.

*On which note, God, if you ever want a scrap, I’ll meet you on the grass down the bottom of the park. I’ve got a few bones to pick.

** To be fair, this particular detail didn't feel quite as serious. 

***Or stolen, inherited, found etc